How-To Rock Climb the Most Pitches in One Day

After speaking with Laurel the Squirrel and Whitneyio on twitter about climbing for efficiency, it sparked ideas to help you climb more pitches through out a trip.  Besides free soloing these are my best suggestions.  Note: this is for sport climbing not trad.

1.  Leave friends in dark about trip

Sounds cruel but do not let anyone know you are going on a trip (unless you want them to come).  ;)  Only let your climbing partner know that you are trying to get a trip in where you want to get as many pitches as you can.

2.  Pick an equal partner

My bud and I up at Red River Gorge. Climbing efficiently means not taking picture either ;) oops!

Instead of picking someone who is better than you to climb with to improve, pick someone who is about the same level of climber.  That way you will be climbing at the same level. (duh!)

3.  Get up early!

Don't be a bum.  Wake up before sun rises and make sure to get to the crag by the time it rises.  Yep, that is early, but if you want to climb as much as possible you do kind of need the sun.  Get a quick breakfast (instant oatmeal is a favorite) and roll out.

4.  Get everything ready the night before.

Make sure packs are ready with everything you need so you can just grab and go.  Meaning, water packs filled as well.

5.  Hydrate

Drink lots and lots of water the night before.  And no, beer is not good for this.  Make sure to drink a lot because you will not be getting a lot the next day.

GEARING UP...

6.  Wear comfortable clothing

Might not think this is a big deal but you wear what you are going to carry.  So, do not plan on carrying anything extra.  Otherwise this is just going to slow you down or you are going to lose it.  Trust me, has happened before.

7.  Get harness/rack ready

The idea is to not carry anything extra like I said above about clothing.  Same goes for gear.  No packs.  I have a small camelbak that I wear, that I barely notice, and is enough water for the day.  Your partner should have their own as well.  When you suit up make sure to get all quickdraws, belays, onsights, chalk bags, and whatever else you think you may need ready to go.  I always take about 15-17 draws.  A little overkill I know but I know for sure that I will have enough for ANY climb that we will do.

8.  Always keep shoes on

Get a comfortable pair of shoes that you can leave on pretty much all day but that will also not make you suffer in performance.  Finding a nice balance can be hard but I like to get an all-around solid shoe.

WHILE CLIMBING...

9.  Stay tied in after climb

Let's say PersonA climbs routeA first.  PersonB climbs routeA second.  PersonB should climb routeB next because he already is tied-in.  Cuts down on a lot of time.

10.  Get prepared while person is rapping down.

While you got some time to yourself.  Figure out the next climb that is closest to you.  Get yourself dusted off.  Whatever you need to do.

11.  Pick routes that are within your range

If you are 5.11a climber, do not go higher than a 5.10c.  Otherwise you will waste time struggling on routes that are tougher.  These efficient days are not about improving in grade but about the number of routes.  So keep it easy, BUT not too easy otherwise it gets boring.  Also, keep them single pitch, otherwise you will find yourself rappelling more than needed.

With these tips you will find yourself climbing WAY more pitches than before.  In about a 6-8 hour span my friend and I have hit about 18-20 routes.  The HARDEST part is finding a wall that will suffice for this.  Anyways, good luck and climb on!


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