Smith Rocks State Park, Oregon

Location: 5 minutes north of Terraboone, Oregon

Type of Climbing: Sport (mostly), Bouldering

Type of Rock: Welded Tuft

Camping: Free BLM land past Skull Hollow Campground, $5/person at Bivouac Area (full-on facilities with showers and bathrooms), or $5 per car at Skull Hollow (Port-o-potties)

Guidebook: Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park, 2nd Edition by Alan Watts


Saying the name "Smith Rock" in the climber world is like saying "Fenway Park" in Baseball.  It is one of the most recognized sport climbing areas in the WORLD.  With 1,800 routes in this tiny area you can basically do what you want when it comes to climbing.  Also, the fact that it is such a small space, approaches are very nice.  The only strenuous part is getting down in to the park.  You have to hike down a couple switchbacks to get down to the gully and back up the other side to the actual crag.  The area is absolutely beautiful though.  It reminded me of scenes from that dinosaur movie "Land Before Time".  With the two rocks jutting out of the ground, topping out at what looks like 600-800 feet and the Crooked River running in between the two formations, provides a scene of just awe-striking moments.

Amenities...
In Terraboone (5 minutes away) there is everything you will need from a Walmart to chain restaurants to non-chain restaurants to hotels/motels.  Needless to say, it is a full running city. 

When it comes to climbing at Smith Rock...
There is a learning curve if you have never been to the area/rock.   

First off, Smith Rock is notorious for an usually high first bolt and hard boulder moves in the beginning.  I am usually not a huge fan of the stick clip but here sometimes it is absolutely necessary.  The starts are pretty strenuous pulling some 5.10 moves when on a 5.8 route.  That being said, there are not many routes that are consistently graded in the park.  I feel like there were several routes that we climbed that were rated in the 10 range that were super tough in the beginning but once you got past that first move/clip it got relatively easy and could have been rated lower.  That combination of tough, stout beginning moves and high clips can lead to disaster if you take a fall.  I would say be confident in your ability before trying to send many of these routes for the first time.   

Second, I think the grades are skewed here.  Smith Rock has two routes of 5.8/9 rating on the Peanut Wall that had some of the hardest starts I dealt with.  I did not really find the solid routes until I asked around for information, which is really easy because the people there are simply awesome.

Third, the actual climbing takes more of a balance act than it is power moves.  Smith Rock has many knobs where you can pinch down on with a thumb and two fingers providing a suprisingly solid hand to move up on.  There also were many finger pockets where you could literally stick a whole finger in to balance on. (I don't suggest putting a full finger in, in case you fall...)  You generally have solid feet because these knobs are so sharp but I felt that the micro-ledges here were not as sticky as granite micro-ledges.  My feet seemed to slip slowly if sitting hard on a foot. 

Fourth, and this is totally from personal experience, I felt the climbs were tough.  My climbing ability was definitely tested here, mentally and physically.  These tiny knobs and edges can really get your mind racing.  Climbing at Smith, you will notice that you might climb at a grade a bit lower than you normally do.  I felt that way anyway, you might have a different experience.

The Guidebook...
I do not know if a guidebook for an area gets better than this.  Alan Watts climbed Smith for 20(?) years so he REALLY knows the area.  With great descriptions, colored pictures AND topos, it is pretty tough to get lost at Smith.  Even without a guidebook, we were not that lost because of the free trail map from the Park Service and the locals letting us know of good climbs.

My opinion on general area...
Like I said above, I thought the area was simply beautiful BUT what I did not like all too much was the amount of foot traffic that comes through the park.  There are many families and hikers that come through to see the area. (Smith IS cool, so I don't blame people for hiking the area)  I hope I am not the only one who does not like it but the amount of non-climbers hiking through can get annoying.  On our last climb of the day there was a female who was hysterically swearing about her husband (probably not an everyday occurrence).  It got pretty annoying when trying to climb a route and hear crying.  It takes away from the serenity of climbing though.  Everywhere I have climbed, hiking in the area is pretty minimal or nonexistent.  Having little traffic except for climbers creates a peaceful, quiet scene, which is nice.  I know I probably sound like a snob but I do LOVE climbing for the reason that it is just you and the rock.  The only spectators are your belayer and nature.

Camping...
All of the camping areas at Smith are very close to everything.  I would suggest either camping BLM or piling all of your friends in one car and pay the $5 at Skull Hollow.

My suggestions for some easy first climbs...
Rope-de-dope wall has a 5.9 and a 5.6 that both are easy first clips that I feel are great routes to get started on.  It will give you a good feel of the rock and you will see how you need to learn how to balance on tiny knobs and small finger holes.

Weather...
Dry, dry, dry.  You expect Oregon to be humid but Smith Rock is located in the deserts of Oregon.  I would suggest climbing in the Fall and late in the Summer.  Also, if the sun does come out, follow the shade.  The rock can cause your hands to sweat, making them feel like they are covered in butter.

Recommendation...
Definitely go.  Once I got on rock enough in the lower grades I slowly pushed myself in to harder stuff and LOVED it.  Like I said it can take time to get acclimated to it, but it is worth it.  Have not really mentioned this, but the people there are just as awesome as the climbing.  They are full of energy and are all quality climbers.  I would say you can last maybe a total of 3 days or so because of the sharp knobs, finger pockets, and crimps, so a weekend trip really is perfect at Smith.  Anyway, it was a great trip and I already have a few more routes that I plan on climbing when I go back.

I need to add here that if you are in the area you need to go to Juniper Junction.  It is spotty when it is open, but if it is, you need to stop for Huckleberry ice cream.  It is a little expensive but totally worth it.

Climbs I suggest after getting acclimated...(Ticklist)
Phoenix (5.10a)
JT's (5.10b)
Moons of Pluto (5.10b)
Cosmos (5.10a)
Honey Pot (5.9)
Teddy Bear Picnic (5.10a)
Phone Call from Satan (5.9)
5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
Hissing Llamas (5.8)

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