Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Location: Located in Slade, Kentucky, 1 hour east of Lexington, 2 hours southeast of Cincinnati (Ohio)

Type of Climbing: Sport, Trad

Type of Rock: Sandstone

Camping: $2/person Miguel's Pizza

Guidebook: Red River Gorge Rock Climbs (3rd Edition) by Ray Ellington


Ohhhhh buddy!  I love this place.  I probably have some bias when it comes to Red River Gorge but it is where I started outdoor climbing.

Amenities...
Stock up on goods before you get in.  There is a Subway and 2 gas stations but that is about it.  About 15 minutes on the Mountain Highway in Stanton, KY there is a grocery store in case you are in dire need of some food or *gasp* run out of beer.

Climbing here...
RRG is known as having some of the biggest pump in the WORLD.  The rock is sandstone which leaves pockets as small as a finger to as big as a whole hand.  Do not expect any choss because the walls here get tons of traffic throughout the climbing season.  The rock will give you lots of variation to holds.  Crimps, jugs, side clings, under clings; you name it, RRG has it.  Saying that though, expect big hard moves.  Overhangs-a-plenty with accompanied heel hooks.  The first bolt here is generally at a normal height but every so often you will get a high first clip.  There are so many people walking around with stick clips though that you do not need one.  So get ready to roll those sleeves up and bust out your guns. (Ha!)

The Guidebook...
I have used the 2nd edition and the 3rd edition for the area.  Both are amazing, maybe even perfect.  The difference from the 2nd to the 3rd are the addition of new walls.  Expect another edition coming out in another 2 years because there are even MORE new routes being put up.  Anyway, about the book, it is filled with great perspective photos of the rock keeping you on route while on the approach.  It also has correct information when it comes to how many bolts, runout, etc.  Route descriptions are on point with exactly what you need to know when you can not see the top and you think it is "do-able".

My opinion on general area...
Well, the area...is...pretty nonexistant.  It is a beautiful area with the gorge and the Natural Bridge (worth seeing at least once).  It is a very underdeveloped area, but hey isn't that why climbing areas are so great?

Camping...
Stay at Miguel's.  It is the best place to stay as a climber.  It is a cheap stay, awesome pizza, and lots of Ale 8.  Note:  Need to get an Ale 8, if you have not had one yet, you are missing out.  Back to Miguel's, it is the bees knees when it comes to the climber hang out.  Everyone hangs out here and shares stories of past adventures.

Weather...
WooWee is it humid!  I would suggest going to the gorge in Fall or Spring.  Summer is freakin' miserable with the humidity to the point where you can not function.  The Fall is especially nice.  Just watch out for biting flies and mosquitos.  Oh and the dreaded tick.  Gross.

Recommendation...
Why wouldn't you go?!  RRG has been and always will be my favorite place to climb.  It is perfect for a beginner to learn but hard enough for any mutant to take on.  Yes mutants, there is a 14a (Lucifer) that tops the climbing ticklist here.  So what are you waiting for?  Head on down to Kentucky for a knee slapping, arm pumping, beer drinking, pizza eating time.

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