An Andes Winter: Parte Dos

Looking back on my first month here in the Andes and comparing it to the second, I saw many similarities, and from what the locals told me ended up being an odd September. The same sitting and waiting, then snow pattern would happen. The only thing that remained inconsistent were the people living in our house.

Through August we were denied the summit of Nevados, according to our Chilean guidebook a 5 to 6 hour hike from the base of the mountain that would require a mental and physical commitment. We as a group – Tom, Ellen, Jessie (new addition from Oregon), Sepp (an instructor from Germany) and Diego (a man-child from Italy) – decided to try and hit Nevados but do it from the refugio, a mountain hut, located just outside of the resort.

To make a long story short, I ended up sleeping terribly in our rat infested, windowless, broken roofed home for the night and had to change plans due to an increasingly strong wind with zero visibility to Nevados.

I like to dwell on the positives though, and I ended up losing my poles somewhere in the Andes, but while looking for them I got to see one of the most beautiful sunsets my eyes has ever seen.


After the refugio trip the weather stayed pretty consistent and warmed up a bit from the middle of August to the beginning of September. When I say consistent, I mean it didn’t snow at all but that’s the way of the Andes I have learned. Throughout those days I went on a few trips up, hiking the entire ridge of Valle Hermoso taking around 2.5 hours but finding great shots of untouched powder. It seemed like no one was out there once our crew stopped going out and the Casa Tour Guides were done or north skiing around Santiago helping the current conditions at least stay untouched.

The ridge from my perspective.

Following the trees up right and following that ridge all the way around.

The snow stay soft at higher elevations but it soon turned to bullet proof in the later part of August. Our plans for snowboarding were diminishing and our plans for drinking and playing dice games were constant.

At the end of August Tom and Ellen had plans of leaving and going to Bariloche, Argentina. They wanted the summit of Nevados, so we tried again, our group of 4 this time – Mark and I included – and again got denied. It was one of those peaks that we just couldn’t get. Mark got in front and was leading, hit a ridge and just stopped. You could tell from his body posture that he was incredibly disappointed. Then I got to where Mark was standing, and boom, strong winds…again.

Just a little windy...

For a full look and trip report with pictures click the link here.

In September, we said goodbye to good friends Tom and Ellen and welcomed in our buddy from Salt Lake City, John. John wanted to get some summits and powder in while here. Unfortunately, powder wasn’t an option, instead we took on the two volcanoes (Viejo and Nuevo) and did them both in a speedy time of just 4 and half hours including the descent. Dropping off of Nuevo and putting in clean 3 clean lines – Mark, John and myself – I was shocked but stoked to find some decent snow for John to smile about.

Get it Johnny!

Happy day on our double summit day.

Later that day, we welcomed in a slew of people that Mark had met in the bus station: Brennan, Alyssa, Dave, and Max after we had another friend, Greg, from Salt Lake join us as well. Making our total in our house 8 people and slightly crammed in our little cabin home.

We hadn’t gotten much snow, or any for that matter and it rained throughout the valley. You could tell people were getting a down on the scene but it didn’t stop the new crew from going out. I had no intentions of getting out in the rain, but because I have a hard time saying no to already made plans, I went with them. It was miserable, it was wet, but it was totally worth it to hike through the rain, rivers, and lava rock to hit a couloir I wouldn’t normally end up in.


For the full story and sick photos from Brennan Metzler, check the link here.

On September 12, we tried for the 4th attempt of Nevados and got kicked off again because of dangerous ice and with a crew of 6 trying to hike up an ice patch at 50 degrees without crampons we bailed on the idea. Instead, we hit a mellow line out of there and tried to go from the top of the mountain to our house going through the Shangru La Valle. This was option #2 as our first option was to just ski back to the resort. Unfortunately, we got intensely lost through a lava field but made it out safe and sound.

John safely navigating out of a sketch situation.

Then on the morning of September 13, we woke up to fresh snow in the valley. I just kept thinking, “This isn’t normal…”



After getting word that there was a 6-day Independence Celebration that is “can’t miss” I decided to change my flight from September 15 to September 23. I had no intentions of snowboarding any more lines and mostly just enjoying the party.

The biggest moment happened for myself and Mark on September 17, we finally…finally…summited Nevados! We got up to the mountain at 9:30am and started hiking, and hiking some more. It took 4.5 hours to get to the top on one of the roughest skins I’ve ever done in my life. Reaching the summit I couldn’t help but yell in excitement. Five attempts and finally got it done.



After assessing the slopes under us, we dropped what is called the Lunar Face, a big face of consistent 45 degrees. Because it’s so far off and the aspect that the snow sits in, the snow is perfect and clean for two committed hikers. The run was incredible, one of the best of my life, then the realization of hiking out set in and the 4.5 hour slog continued on adding another 3 hours to get out and to home. I’ve never been so tired, yet feel so fulfilled in my life. I broke every rule hiking out of there including eating snow. It just tasted so good.

Feliz Dieciocho!

Or the Independence party that starts on the 18th and doesn’t end until the impending Monday. Partying until 5am was a typical night with Chi-cha (not sure of spelling) – a wine, pineapple, and sugar mix – and the surefire free food from the traditional esado (or bbq). It was insane to say the least and I could only handle it for a couple of days until I had to throw in the towel. It was so much fun celebrating with them and seeing how they party and dance their traditional way called cueca which I’ve learned I’m pretty terrible at. The Chileans know how to celebrate though!

With only 5 more days left in my trip, I had zero regrets of leaving. I had accomplished most of my goals in the area and had enjoyed the powder to the fullest extent but Mother Nature apparently wanted to make me as happy as possible. On September 19 it stormed, again! Another 8 inches or so fell keeping us wondering if we should ever leave this place.

On September 21, Mark and I had one more objective to obtain, the pyramid. It’s a feature that is right off of Nevados requiring another huge day.

The pyramid from above...just look at that slope! Beautiful.

Last time we were up there, we hit the Lunar Face because we knew for sure how the snow was going to be. From afar the pyramid didn’t look good so we didn’t go for it. At any rate, we attempted to hit the pyramid but got stopped because of wind and we had only got to the top of the Mirador chair. I wasn’t incredibly motivated to hit, and apparently neither was Mark, as we talked about our options and how the snow conditions weren’t quite right either.

Instead, we saw some friends who work/guide the snowcat and got a ride up. I’ve never been cat skiing before and it was one of those firsts that you remember for the rest of your life. “Yep I’m in a snowcat…in Chile…on a volcano…sweet!”


That would end up being my last day on snow in Chile. I reminisce now about that and I don’t know if I could end it in any better way. I think about the partners that I have had, hiking up, and am so grateful and stoked for meeting them: my consistent partner Mark, who seems to run on a different octane and breaking trail while I took photos; George, “just keep skinning”; Tom and Ellen, just two of the best, most knowledgeable people you’ll want to be in the backcountry with who always have cookies on hand; Jessie, great dude from Oregon who I could rely on when no one else wanted or could go; Brennan/John/Greg for adding a different spark to the group and being a motivator for me to get back out and for anyone I forgot and haven’t mentioned. There were a lot of people who were in my life on this trip, lots to mention and I appreciate meeting all of you. (even if we spoke very little because of language barriers)

Chile is a different world, more specifically Las Trancas is a different world: very little wifi, no TV, no cellphones (unless you’re smart enough to buy one for cheap) but a place where you can really get to know the people in your life, right now. Instead of liking something on Facebook you can talk to them over a crappy box of wine and gambling away $5 while playing dice games.

I don’t honestly know how to put into words how incredible this place really is. It’s changed me as a person forever, and I know I will be back soon. I miss it already, but I think it’s the perfect time to be back in the States as winter is cruising just around the corner.

Pray for snow.

Other Photos to Note:

Hitch hiking, the Chilean national past time and throwing rocks into a beer bottle.

I'm going to miss lines like this.